You did not create a new problem
This one confuses almost everybody the first time. You work on your snipe, something improves, and then you notice it has turned up at the other end of the board. It feels like the machine is fighting you.
It is not. Snipe has two separate origins, one at each end of the pass, and most of the common fixes only act on one of them. When you improve one, the other becomes the one you notice.
The useful part is that this tells you something precise about your machine, and it points at the specific adjustment to make next.
The two handoffs
Your planer holds the board with two rubber rollers, one ahead of the cutterhead and one behind it. The cut is stable whenever both of them are carrying the board.
There are exactly two moments when that is not true.
Going in. The leading end of the board is under the infeed roller and has not yet reached the outfeed roller. Only the infeed roller is loaded. The carriage flexes slightly, the cutting plane drops, and the leading few inches get cut deeper.
Coming out. The trailing end has left the infeed roller and is held only by the outfeed roller. Same flex, same deeper cut, this time on the trailing few inches.
Those two events are separate, and there is no reason for them to be equally bad. The rollers can sit at slightly different heights. Their springs can differ. One can be more worn or more glazed than the other. Whichever side has the larger load difference produces the deeper snipe, and that is the end you see.
Why your fix moved it
Most of the standard remedies are one-sided, even when people do not think of them that way.
- A sacrificial board behind your workpiece keeps the rollers loaded through the exit, so it addresses the trailing end. A board in front addresses the leading end. People often use one and not the other.
- Lifting by hand is almost always done more deliberately at one end than the other. Most woodworkers lift the trailing end carefully and the leading end casually, because the trailing end is the one they have been told about.
- Raising one table changes the geometry on that side only.
- Adjusting one roller obviously acts on the handoff that roller controls.
Any of these can take the worse of your two handoffs and make it better than the other one. The snipe does not go away. It swaps ends.
Which end is which, actually
Before diagnosing anything, make sure you know which end of the board went in first. This sounds obvious. It is also where most people go wrong, because a planed board is symmetrical and gets turned around on the bench while you inspect it.
Mark the leading end with a pencil arrow before the pass. Then look.
Snipe on the leading end came from the entry transition, when only the infeed roller was loaded. The infeed side is where the larger load difference is.
Snipe on the trailing end came from the exit transition, when only the outfeed roller was loaded. Look at the outfeed side.
If you have a roller height adjustment fitted, the correction belongs on the side that matches. Reducing how deeply that roller presses shrinks the load difference at that handoff. Work in small increments, one side at a time, and run a test board between changes. Changing both at once means you learn nothing.
What this proves about the cause
There is a bigger point hiding in this, and it is the reason this symptom is worth paying attention to.
If snipe were caused by the board drooping or tipping off the end of the table, the two ends would behave the same way, and nothing you did at the infeed side would change what happens at the outfeed side. That is not what people observe. The snipe moves, predictably, in response to changes in roller loading.
That is the behavior of a load problem rather than a support problem. It is also why the most common advice, which is to build longer tables, so often produces disappointment: it addresses board support thoroughly and roller loading not at all. We go through that properly in why the classic tricks are workarounds.
If both ends are now mild
Getting the two handoffs balanced, with a shallow trace at each end rather than a deep one at a single end, is usually the point at which snipe stops mattering. Measure it before deciding you are not finished. Owners who dial this in carefully tend to end up in the range of one to two thousandths of an inch, which disappears under normal sanding.
If you are still chasing it, the next question is whether your machine gives you any way to set roller height at all. On the DeWalt DW735 it does not, from the factory, which is covered in our post on roller adjustment. Our Planer Snipe Fix Kit adds independent height adjustment on both sides, which is what makes balancing the two handoffs possible rather than a matter of luck.